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Kevin Costner | Source: Instagram/kevincostner
Kevin Costner | Source: Instagram/kevincostner

The Hidden Meaning of Five 'Yellowstone' Stars' Cowboy Hats

Junie Sihlangu
Nov 13, 2024
11:16 A.M.

"Yellowstone" is the cowboy drama on everybody's lips, intriguing viewers with its gripping plot and talented actors. What isn't widely known by many is the fact that when it comes to the attire worn by the characters, there is more than what meets the eye, especially concerning their cowboy hats.

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On November 10, the second half of the fifth season of "Yellowstone," dubbed 5B, was launched to the thrill of its fans. The first half, 5A, debuted on November 27, 2022. The final installment continues to follow the Dutton family as they leverage their political prowess to protect their ranch.

Kevin Costner, Taylor Sheridan, Kelly Reilly, Luke Grimes, Cole Hauser, Kelsey Asbille, and Gil Birmingham at the "Yellowstone" TV show panel during the TCA Winter Press Tour in Los Angeles on January 15, 2018 | Source: Getty Images

Kevin Costner, Taylor Sheridan, Kelly Reilly, Luke Grimes, Cole Hauser, Kelsey Asbille, and Gil Birmingham at the "Yellowstone" TV show panel during the TCA Winter Press Tour in Los Angeles on January 15, 2018 | Source: Getty Images

In March 2021, one of the show's stars, Cole Hauser, gave a hint at what fans could expect from the current season but his details were vague. He revealed that the season will be fantastic and that it picks up from season four's dramatic ending.

The actor, who plays Rip Wheeler, said fans would be "happily surprised." But one thing soured fans' anticipation.

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Costner's Departure from 'Yellowstone'

After rumors circulated that Kevin Costner would be leaving the show, the actor who plays patriarch John Dutton, finally put them to rest. In a short Instagram clip in June 2024, he shared that he wouldn't be reprising his role in "Yellowstone" season 5B.

After spending a year and a half on his four-part saga, "Horizon," he revealed that he couldn't continue with the series. Reflecting on "Yellowstone," he admitted, "It was something that really changed me. I loved it. And I know you loved it."

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He added, "And I just wanted to let you know that I won't be returning, and I love the relationship we've been able to develop, and I'll see you at the movies."

During an interview, he also shared why he'd finally spoken up about his departure. "Simply with all the questions that were being asked (about 'Yellowstone'), the longer I thought about that ... I just wanted to say that this is a stepping-off point," Costner said. "Whatever I'd hoped for maybe was not in the cards. I don't want to keep saying, 'Yeah, I hope I can do it.' That's drifted to a place that I don't think is realistic anymore."

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According to speculation, his impending departure started with rumors of a feud between the actor, "Yellowstone's" co-creator and writer, Taylor Sheridan, and the show's network, Paramount Network in 2023.

Costner reportedly refused to film for more than a week for season 5B, a claim the star denied. He clarified that he didn't shoot season 5B only because the script wasn't ready at the scheduled time.

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The actor felt what the public was hearing about his departure wasn't balanced, stating that they were "reading one version [of this behind-the-scenes drama] for a year and a half." In a different interview, he also confessed to being tired of hoping he'd return to "Yellowstone."

Many netizens were displeased by Costner's absence in the series. "Won't be the same without Kevin Costner…I'm so sad. 😭💔," complained an Instagrammer. While another asked, "What's the point without Kevin Costner?!"

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Someone else referenced the show's co-creator, Sheridan, saying, "There's no point of [sic] watching this show if Kevin Costner isn't in it. Taylor Sheridan you really messed up this one." Another person stated, "Not gonna lie. It's not the same without Kevin. 😢."

Someone else asserted, "Passs! No Costner- No show! Sorry!" Echoing what the other fans were saying, an individual wrote, "Dead to me. No Kevin = not watching. So what if he has a passion for doing another show? A starring actor can make that balance. But greed is king for Sheridan."

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With Costner's exclusion from "Yellowstone" 5B, his energy is now focused on "Horizon." But as we settle in to watch the new season without him, let's have a look at the different cowboy hats worn by actors on "Yellowstone."

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'Yellowstone's' Significant Cowboy Hats

The cowboy hats of five "Yellowstone" stars have hidden meanings embedded in their design. More than just an accessory adding to their cowboy get-ups, these hats reveal important details about each character's personality and distinct look.

Cowboy hats also have a rich history that dates back to 1865 when iconic Western hatter John B. Stetson invented the first commercially manufactured one. Since then, cowboy hats have been accessories worn by people around the world.

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Regarding who is responsible for the hat maintaining popularity, credit goes to the "Yellowstone" and "1923" costume design team, spearheaded by award-winning costume designer Janie Bryant, and the co-creator of both shows, Sheridan.

According to Bryant, whose work has been cited as influential by world-renowned designers like Vera Wang and Michael Kors, the popular appeal of the hats has a lot to do with the symbols people associate with the item.

Janie Bryant at the AMC and Sundance Channel Golden Globes Viewing Party in Los Angeles, California on January 16, 2011 | Source: Getty Images

Janie Bryant at the AMC and Sundance Channel Golden Globes Viewing Party in Los Angeles, California on January 16, 2011 | Source: Getty Images

"I think it really is about the American spirit. There's a wildness [...] and a sense of freedom that we identify with the cowboy hat. It's iconically American, and I think people relate with it globally," she explained in an interview from 2023.

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Kevin Costner posing as John Dutton in "Yellowstone," posted on May 9, 2024 | Source: Instagram/yellowstone

Kevin Costner posing as John Dutton in "Yellowstone," posted on May 9, 2024 | Source: Instagram/yellowstone

Bryant started venturing into designing Western costumes in 2004, with her costume creations featured on HBO's critically acclaimed series "Deadwood." Her work was so well done that she scored an Emmy.

Janie Bryant at the AMC's "Mad Men" Celebration for SAG, WGA and DGA Nominations in West Hollywood, California on January 25, 2008 | Source: Getty Images

Janie Bryant at the AMC's "Mad Men" Celebration for SAG, WGA and DGA Nominations in West Hollywood, California on January 25, 2008 | Source: Getty Images

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Speaking about her design process while working on cowboy hats specifically, Bryant divulged, "I try to be as authentic to the period as possible, and to illuminate the character with the design of each hat. On '1923,' I researched all the different types of hats that were worn in the twenties, and a little bit earlier as well."

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Upon conducting her research, Bryant found that, during that era, cowboy hats were very big. Felt hats were also favored over straw hats, which were not used at that time. Bryant and her team also worked closely with Montana hat maker Bear to produce a selection of hats for "1923."

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Of the experience, the costume designer recalled, "I feel blessed that we found Bear. We shot in a small town, and Bear would bring his camper to the studio and just make hats for us all day long, with different colors, different hat blocks, and different felts. He made hundreds of hats for us."

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Of those hundreds of hats Bear made, we're taking a closer look at the ones worn by "Yellowstone's" characters played by Harrison Ford, Hauser, Luke Grimes, Kelly Reilly, and Costner. When it comes to crafting their hats, authenticity is key.

Show co-creator Sheridan, whom costume designer Johnetta Boone calls the "authenticator," is well-versed in all things cowboy. As a result of Sheridan's preference for authenticity, Boone uses techniques to distress the hats and give them a lived-in feel.

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Harrison Ford AKA Jacob Dutton's Large High-Crowned Gray Cowboy Hat

First on the list is Harrison Ford, who stars in "1923" as powerful Montana rancher Jacob Dutton, otherwise known as the great-granduncle of John Dutton in "Yellowstone." Reportedly, Ford's character's hat is a standout for viewers, among the flurry of impeccably designed cowboy hats.

Harrison Ford in a scene from "1923," posted on June 7, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Yellowstone

Harrison Ford in a scene from "1923," posted on June 7, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Yellowstone

Drawing inspiration from the popular hat Robert Duvall's character wore in "Lonesome Dove," Ford's high-crowned gray hat has a wide brim that is rolled up on each side and features a steep front dip.

Harrison Ford in a scene from "1923," posted on June 7, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Yellowstone

Harrison Ford in a scene from "1923," posted on June 7, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Yellowstone

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Bryant had a lot of conversations with the actor to create the hat. The two spoke about different hat blocks and creases before ultimately deciding on what is known as the Montana Peak. "It's a slope style that's higher in the back and shorter in the front, and the slope goes down the center," Bryant shared.

Harrison Ford in a scene from "1923," posted on June 7, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Yellowstone

Harrison Ford in a scene from "1923," posted on June 7, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Yellowstone

Trusting her instinct, the costume designer felt this particular style would suit the actor's character, as she described it as very strong and masculine—characteristics that perfectly capture Jacob Dutton.

Harrison Ford in a scene from "1923," posted on June 7, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Yellowstone

Harrison Ford in a scene from "1923," posted on June 7, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Yellowstone

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Concerning the colors used for his hat, Bryant said she chose silver and gray to reflect underlying personality traits. "I loved using silver and gray, because there's a coolness and a traditional sensibility to his character. He's hardened in a way by just working the land," she noted.

Cole Hauser AKA Rip Wheeler's Curled Cowboy Hat

The hat worn by Hauser, otherwise known as "Yellowstone's" Rip Wheeler, further speaks to the authentic and lived-in approach prioritized by Sheridan, Boone, and Bryant.

"First of all, it's completely morphed to the shape of his face because of the way he's curled it over time, which tells us that he's been wearing it nonstop every day on the ranch since he was a teenager," revealed Boone.

Cole Hauser as Rip Wheeler in "Yellowstone," posted on April 12, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Peacock

Cole Hauser as Rip Wheeler in "Yellowstone," posted on April 12, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Peacock

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Boone, who makes use of "movie dirt" and natural elements from filming locations and oil to rub into the cowboy hats, goes on to explain how initially Hauser's character's hat was clean, black, and rigid in shape.

Cole Hauser as Rip Wheeler in "Yellowstone," posted on April 12, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Peacock

Cole Hauser as Rip Wheeler in "Yellowstone," posted on April 12, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Peacock

"But now it's curled in a way that says he's been at this job for a long time," she finished. Hauser's cowboy hat is not the only one that has been worked on to look worn and dirty, as Luke Grimes' character also rocks the dirt-stained look.

Cole Hauser as Rip Wheeler in "Yellowstone," posted on April 12, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Peacock

Cole Hauser as Rip Wheeler in "Yellowstone," posted on April 12, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Peacock

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Luke Grimes AKA Kayce Dutton's Filthy Cowboy Hat

While Hauser's may be a little dirty, it is no match for the hat worn by Luke Grimes aka Kayce Dutton. A media outlet even goes so far as to dub the hat "downright gross." However, according to Boone, who sometimes uses a torch on the hats to burn and break down clean fibers, it's on purpose.

"Kayce's hat tells us that he's not just the ranch owner's son, he also works hard and means business. He absolutely gets in there and gets his hands dirty," disclosed Boone.

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Interestingly, when Boone tried to gift Grimes' character with a clean, new hat for Season 3 to match his new esteemed title as the Montana Livestock Commissioner, Sheridan told her not to.

Luke Grimes as Kayce Dutton in "Yellowstone," posted on September 26, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Yellowstone

Luke Grimes as Kayce Dutton in "Yellowstone," posted on September 26, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Yellowstone

Sheridan called the costume designer telling her not to change the hat despite her reasoning that she and Grimes thought he needed a fresh one since he also wore new clothes for his first day at his new job.

However, the show's co-creator stopped them dead in their tracks, saying, "He might have a clean hat for a special occasion, but that's not the occasion."

Luke Grimes as Kayce Dutton in "Yellowstone," posted on September 26, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Yellowstone

Luke Grimes as Kayce Dutton in "Yellowstone," posted on September 26, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Yellowstone

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Kelly Reilly AKA Beth Dutton's Soft Cowboy Hat

Kelly Reilly, aka "Yellowstone's" Beth Dutton, is reportedly the show's most popular character, best known for her fiery and vicious persona. However, when it comes to her cowboy hat, the wardrobe department wanted to highlight a softer side to her.

Kelly Reilly as Beth Dutton in "Yellowstone," posted on January 17, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Prime Video Canada

Kelly Reilly as Beth Dutton in "Yellowstone," posted on January 17, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Prime Video Canada

Crafted especially for Reilly, the hat illustrates her vulnerability and compassion, even though it may be embedded deep beneath her tough exterior. Boone spoke about how seeing the actress with her cowboy hat on makes viewers feel differently about the "hard-nosed executive."

Kelly Reilly as Beth Dutton in "Yellowstone," posted on January 17, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Prime Video Canada

Kelly Reilly as Beth Dutton in "Yellowstone," posted on January 17, 2023 | Source: YouTube/Prime Video Canada

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She added, "We hadn't seen Beth on a horse before, so we wanted viewers to fall in love with seeing her on horseback with that hat."

Kevin Costner AKA John Dutton's Different Cowboy Hats

Last, but certainly not least on the list is Kevin Costner's character. Unlike most of his fellow co-stars, "The Bodyguard" actor's character wears many hats that define his personality. Each hat worn is largely dependent on what the character is doing in a particular scene.

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His formal big black hat was worn in Season 5 when he was sworn in as the governor of Montana. While this hat in particular appears especially grand on the TV screen, Boone revealed that it is nothing more than an optical illusion.

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Kevin Costner posing as John Dutton in "Yellowstone," posted on July 26, 2020 | Source: Instagram/kevincostner

Kevin Costner posing as John Dutton in "Yellowstone," posted on July 26, 2020 | Source: Instagram/kevincostner

"Kevin's governor's hat might look bigger, but it's actually the exact same hat as all of his others. They're all the same size and shape," she clarified. However, she said that the difference lies in how the hats are worn.

Boone stated that when Costner's character wears his cowboy outfit, the hat doesn't appear as threatening or as broad as it tends to look when he wears a suit.

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Speaking about the importance of using color for all the characters' hats, Boone unveiled, "Taylor set the color tone early on, and the tone is sunset. We use sunset hues because they're warmer, and they create a relationship between the viewer and the cowboys, because it's connected to the Earth."

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Adding another layer of distinction between the custom-made "Yellowstone" cowboy hats and commercial ones, the costume designers use beaver fur.

Highlighting the noticeable difference between the two, Boone mentioned, "A tourist would wear a felt cowboy hat, but real cowboys wear beaver hats because they're waterproof, and they hold their shape regardless of the weather conditions."

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